Home Up to Wrangell Wrangell Petersburg Juneau Glacier Bay

 

DATE: 6-26-02
WEATHER: Windy and raining
LOCATION: Haines to Swanson Harbor
TEMP: Upper 40’s
DESTINATION:   Swanson Harbor

COMMENTS: 

We left Haines Marina at 5:00 AM.  It was raining and windy.  The ride got increasing worse as we got further down the Lynn Canal.  The boat was slamming up and down and water was splashing over the bow.  It was a long day of bashing against the winds and waves.  Bonnie and I tried to get comfortable but it was impossible.  The boat is doing a fantastic job though as the new stabilizers Larry installed are proving their worth today.  I can’t imagine what today would have been like without them. 

 ZIGGY'S A LITTLE GREEN AROUND THE GILLS

It was really rough ride and we were all struggling to find a place to stay put.  Ziggy too was trying to find firm ground but the little guy wasn't having any luck and looked so helpless.  He was standing, or trying to stand, on the slippery teak floor with legs spread wide apart looking like a furry saw horse trying to keep some kind of firm footing.  He looked a bit green around the gills too, poor guy. 

BONNIE WENT FOR COVER

I finally lost my temper and said “I can’t believe what you guys got us into”.  They kept boo hooing the situation trying to minimize the rough seas.  Bonnie just hid her face in a face down on the settee covering her head over with a pillow and tried to sleep, but it was impossible.  She finally gave up and managed to go down the galley steps and back into the guest quarters in the forward stateroom and shut the door.  We did hear or see from here for the rest of the day.  I can't imagine what it was like for her in there because the forward stateroom is the bumpiest place of all to ride on a boat.  She never ventured out once during the rough ride. 

 

Finally, and I mean FINALLY, we neared the end of Lynn Canal and the rough stuff started to break up behind the protection of Mansfield Peninsula.     There was an anchorage nearby that we could have poked into for some shelter but since the weather looked like be turning we decided to keep going and get this dam nightmare over with.   What's another hour?  So we continued on to Swanson Harbor.

It was one miserable day as we fought and banged against head winds and rough seas all the way down that Lynn Canal.  Of course, me being the worry wart, I fretted again all day over all those deadly rocks and ship wrecks that I read about in the cruising guides.  It didn't help that our visibility was poor as both Larry and Bill stood at the helm the entire day straining to see out the rain and wave drenched windows. 

PROTECTION OF SWANSON HARBOR

We finally made our way to the end of Lynn Canal and around the point to peaceful Swanson Harbor.  It’s protected by a few outlying islands but on the map it looks like it could be open to the converging waters and winds of Icy Strait and Chatham Strait.  A nice finish to the day was seeing several humpback whales. 

Once inside the protection of Swanson Harbor we found it amazingly calm.  We docked at what I guess you’d call the public docks.  There are no buildings here, just a couple floating docks and they are not connected to any land mass.  They are just floating out in the middle of the bay so to get to shore we still had to get the dinghy down.  Even though the guys were exhausted I'm sure, they got the dinghy down right away to take Zig to shore. 

RESERVATIONS AT GLACIER FORCE PEOPLE TO DO THINGS THEY NORMALLY WOULDN’T

You may be wondering why we went down the Lynn Canal on a day like this.  Why did they beat themselves up like this?  Well, the answer is, in order to go into Glacier Bay you have to make reservations months ahead and you are expected to be there on that particular day no matter what the conditions and weather may be.  I think it is a dangerous policy as it forces a lot of people like us out on the water in conditions when they shouldn’t be.  After all we've been traveling for weeks trying to get here.  It's a challenge to time it perfectly covering waters and conditions you are not familiar with.

WORRIES ABOUT THE POOP SITUATION

Bonnie and I watched as Larry and Bill took Zig to shore.  We are all still worrying about what Ziggy will do once we get inside of Glacier Bay National Park as dogs are not allowed on shore.  We’re hoping Zig will learn to do his "business" on the boat even though we’ve had no luck teaching him to do it this the entire trip.  This will be the true test of nerves for all of us.  While the guys were on shore, they came up with what they thought was the brilliant idea of gathering up some weeds for Ziggy’s poop box anticipating our next few days in Glacier Bay.  They think that the weeds may entice Zig to do his business if he has some grass in his poop box.  Bill even added a little of Zig’s poop to enhance the poop box.  We’ll see.

We had a simple dinner stir fry and hit the sack early for some badly needed rest.  Needless to say, I don't remember much more of this place as we were all exhausted from the day.

DATE: 6-27-02
WEATHER: Rainy not too windy
LOCATION: Swanson Harbor
TEMP: Mid 40’s
DESTINATION: Bartlett Cove

COMMENTS:  

HEARD m/v JADE ON THE RADIO

We left the anchorage at a reasonable time.  We are heading to Bartlett Cove which is at the entrance to Glacier Bay.  It a nice smooth day out compared to yesterday.  I made a cake for Bonnie’s birthday and baked some pizza for lunch.  We happened to hear “Jade” on the radio asking for dock space in Hoonah, an Indian village, which is just across Icy Strait.  We hailed them on the radio and said “hello.”   They are ahead of us now on the SE Alaska circumnavigation route that most boaters do.  We spent a week in Petersburg waiting for Bill and Bonnie to join us.  It's tough to be on a schedule when you are cruising.  Better to be early than late and then can't choose your weather like yesterday.  Hopefully we’ll catch up with them in Sitka.  They just left Glacier Bay, having spent a week there and now were going to Hoonah where they can catch a small plane to Skagway to take a ride on the train to see the Klondike's trail. 

FIRST SEA OTTER!

We rounded Point Gustavas leaving Icy Strait behind us.  We entered the channel to Bartlett Cove where the park head quarters for Glacier Bay is located.  As we began our entrance into Bartlett cove we saw our first sea otter!  He was cute as a little old bearded man floating in the water on his back. 

NOW YOU SEE IT, NOW YOU DON’T

Bonnie spotted the first red can at the entrance and then we looked away for one quick moment to watch some whales and then lost sight of the can.  It just completely disappeared!  The tide current was so strong that it pulled it under for a few tense moments.  We spotted it again as it resurfaced and then were able to guide ourselves in to Bartlett Cove. 

PARK DOCK AND CHECK IN

The park has a good sized dock to pull up to.  The cute little old park service ship is at the end of the dock.  There were several other small skiffs tied to the dock, probably for the forest rangers.  Wouldn’t you know as we came in to the dock the “Canadians” were there.  We saw them just as they were leaving. 

We tied Knotty Dog up to the dock and all four of us went in to the park office for our orientation and check in.  After that, we walked around the lodge.  We all thought the park lodge was kind of disappointing.  It didn’t even have a real wood burning fireplace just a gas fireplace but we decided we’re going back to the lodge for dinner tonight to celebrate Bonnie’s Birthday. 

Since you can't leave you boat at the park dock for long, we headed back to the boat and filled up with water.   There was a beautiful blue hulled boat at the dock and we wondered what it was.  Bill said it was a Hinckley and the owner happened to hear him on the dock and said “No, it’s the new Eastbay by Grandbanks.”   Its name was “Resolution”.  We also saw the family from Martha's Vineyard who are circumnavigating in their 100 year old schooner “Violet”.  They were leaving the dock in their dinghy heading back to their boat that was anchored several hundred yards out from the park dock. 

MEN AND BOATS

We had a problem getting the boat docked.  I’m used to doing the lines a certain way and then all of a sudden when you have guests or new people on the boat things don't go the way you are used to doing them and it went a bit hay wire.  I usually tie a short center line quick to hold the boat to the dock and then tie the bow and stern and then come back and set the spring lines.  Bill is a sailor and is used to tying the bow first, then the stern.  To make a long story short the docking didn’t go as well as it should have.  I got a little up tight about it and Bill yelled at me saying "This is what boating is so get used to it".  It made me feel bad.  I've come to conclusion that when men come on the boat they automatically think women don’t know a dam thing about boating and just assume that they are there to take over and change the format forgetting that you have been doing just fine for months without them.  Even though I’ve been doing this for a long time, I weaken and let them take over.  Why can’t I just stand on my own two feet and say I’m doing it.  Oh well, I guess I should just enjoy having someone here giving me a break.  That would be the better way to look at it. 

After docking and getting situated we all wanted to go to the Ranger Station to hear the orientation.  We took the dinghy in and walked up the ramp again to the station headquarters.  We ran into the Canadians and stopped and chatted for a moment. 

ORIENTATION

The station is just a little shack with a couple rooms.  You're greeted in the first room by a ranger behind the counter.  He gave Ziggy a biscuit.  He then shuffled us into the other room to watch a 12 minute video on the rules and regulations of the park.  There was information too cautioning visitors (boaters and kayakers) about the extreme tides and shelving of ice, etc.  It was confirmed, pets are not allowed ashore except at Bartlett Cove.  They also gave us a packet with a map showing where the protected whale areas are and the non-motorized areas for the protection of the seals and seal lions.  They also gave us a list of recommended anchorages.  We were instructed to stay off the shore by a mile to allow the whales to feed.  The ranger recommended a few locations that are good places to see the whales and other anchorages that are good for seeing bears.

THE LODGE

The lodge is not much in the way of lodge architecture.  I guess I imagined this charming Alaskan lodge built of logs and river rock with a large fireplace but it was anything but that.  It did have a nice dining room with glass windows that overlooked the dock and anchorage.  There is a large stone fireplace but disappointingly has a gas log set up.  Up stairs is a three aisle display of the natural wildlife and foliage that we are likely to see on our visit and in the back room you can watch a 20 minute film on Glacier Bay.  Larry had to stay outside with Ziggy so I didn’t watch the film. I did check out the exhibits which were fascinating.  Especially memorable what the stuffed otter with its baby on its stomach.  Some of the wild flowers were just magnificent.  It really was a great exhibit so don't miss spending some time there.  They also had a good collection of books on Alaska and Glacier Bay in the store. 

As we walked back on the trail to the dock we came across a Tlingit carving on a tree.  It kind of looked like corn on the cob.  There also was a Tlingit canoe displayed under an awning.  I’m wondering if it is the same type that John Muir used on his canoe trip from Wrangell to Glacier Bay.  His canoe was 6 fathoms long which make it about 36 feet.  That’s just huge.  That must have been quite a trip. 

When we got back to the boat, not only was the docking bad but the de-docking as equally bad.  Oh well.  We anchored out just beyond the no anchoring markers.  We didn't want to have a long ride in on the dinghy for dinner.  It's a little rolly out here but will be fine.  We all take naps.

Dinner later that evening was fine.  I had scallops and shrimp with rice and a cup of bean soup.  Larry and Bill had blackened salmon with black beans and salad.  Bonnie had fettuccine and didn’t like it. 

Back at the boat we put some candles on Bonnie’s cake and sang Happy Birthday.  I gave Bonnie her Shaman pin made out of seal skin and marmot fur that we bought in Haines.  Bill gave her a print of blue dolphins that he also bought in a shop in Haines.

The guys took Ziggy in for one last walk and then we all turned in to bed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DATE:6-28-02
WEATHER: Gorgeous
LOCATION: Glacier Bay
TEMP: 45-50
DESTINATION: Blue Mouse Cove

COMMENTS:

NO REST FOR THE WICKED

We were all saying we were going to sleep in today after the grueling schedule of the last few days.  We weren’t scheduled to leave until 9:00 or 9:30 but Bill and Larry were up at 6:00 AM talking and drinking coffee and that was the end of sleeping in.  Oh well, I could've used a good sleep but in a small boat it's hard for everyone not to hear everything you do.  Larry and I took Ziggy to the dock so I could take him for a good walk before he went on his long Glacier Bay Journey where a dog cannot get off on shore.  I’d sure like to know why the restriction.

SCENERY IS SPECTACULAR

The weather is perfect and it's a beautiful day.  We have a rare clear view of Mt. Fairweather which is over 15,000 feet tall.   The scenery is much like what we’ve seen so far on our trip.  We start to see the glacierization (if there is such a word) in different stages.  Some of the mountains are scraped and have no greenery.  All that is left from the glacial age is just black stone, gravel and sand.  We see some big stretches of beach in the distance.  There are huge mammoth valleys that go in it seems like forever. 

JOHN MUIR CAMPING SIGHT

We pass the inlet where John Muir camped.  It was his first campsite in Glacier Bay.  We can see several different glaciers in the distance.  We start to see more and more chunks of ice in the water.

ICE RECEDING

We decided to head up what they call the West Arm.  All this area that we are traveling through now from Bartlett in was covered by glacial ice when Vancouver was exploring here in the late 1700s.  By the time Muir came to visit Glacier Bay the ice had receded behind Tlingit Point.  Tlingit Point is where Muir camped and did his 18-20 hour day outings.  The daylight last so long up here it's not hard to imagine hiking those long days. 

We were planning our first night stay at Blue Mouse Cove just East from Tlingit Point.  The area from Tlingit Point Northward was covered in Glacier up until 1860, now it has receded. 

BERGIES EVERYWHERE

The day was beautiful so we decided to carry on up the channel while the weather was good.  The mountain views were just spectacular.  We were amazed at the lack of other boaters.  We truly felt like we had the place to ourselves.  In almost all directions it seemed were huge glaciers, all significantly different in size, shape and color.  We passed bergies, mostly small in scale compared to the surrounding massive landscape.  They weren't the nice clean icy blue bergies that we saw in Tracey Arm but dirty brown.  Some are actually look black from the distance and resemble large barges or whales. 

We pass Reid Glacier which looks spectacular and we all promise to take a closer look on the way back.  We decide to head as far North as we can today.  We got a glimpse of a huge cruise ship coming down the inlet.  I take a picture of it just to capture an idea of the huge scale of the surroundings against these glaciers. The waters are becoming lighter in color and we see more icy chunks.   We pass Russell Island on our right which is said to be a recommended anchorage but there is so much ice there we wonder how restful it would be at night if the wind picked up with all those bergs floating past the boat. 

It’s becoming more difficult as we tread up the channel.  Ice bergs are everywhere.  Larry is getting tense trying to dodge the bergs.  At one point the path is too blocked and Larry puts the breaks on and backs out to find another path.  He back tracks and sees an opening on the port side of the inlet.  So we take that and have a pretty good path on up the channel.  The mountains are covered in beautiful black rock, clean of foliage except for the lichen.  We see the Grand Pacific Glacier ahead.  It looks like something from Star Trek, huge, vast and desolate, like nothing we’ve ever seen before.  It’s dirty in color and you could almost imagine yourself being on the desert or really more like the moon. 

As we get just far enough up the channel to see Margerie Glacier which was completely different in structure than the Grand Pacific Glacier.  It was a vertical and white and we estimated the face to be 200-300 ft tall.  The ice was getting tricky and we decided to turn the boat and head back down.  Even the small chunks were solid ice which is like a floating rock that can do considerable damage to the hull. 

GETTING A LITTLE RECKLESS

We passed “Resolution” (GB Eastbay) and he was whipping around up to the face and even let someone off on the ice.  We knew this because the cruise ship captain got on the radio and told him it was extremely dangerous and he shouldn’t do that.  We were not of that adventuresome spirit. 

We were happy that we got as far as we did and had perfect weather so that we could take in the mountains and glaciers at a distance as well.  We were not deprived of any vistas because of the perfectly rare clear day. 

We were also being cautious because the currents at times gave us a 6 knot gain in our speed.  At one time coming up from Bartlett we were going 15 knots which is not our normal slow speed.  We headed south to see if we could get close to Lamplugh Glacier for a picture.  As we got closer the ice bergs were too close and too big so we headed down again.  We were fascinated by the different shapes and colors of the bergs.  The shapes were very animated and brought to mind all sorts of funny characters.  The water was again that wonderful aqua milky color that we saw in Tracy Arm. 

 

REID GLACIER

We pulled into Reid Glacier inlet and the waters were calm and free of masses of ice.  There was a Nordic Tug anchored at the entry at the base of a huge mountain that looked like one big ice slide.  We crept in as close to the glacier as Larry felt comfortable with.  We are aware of the warnings that the glacier may calve and created dangerous waves if we get too close.  Bill and I get in the dinghy to sneak Ziggy ashore and also get some pictures of Knotty Dog with the glacier as a back drop.  Again the scale is so deceiving.  Alaska is just huge.  We keep traveling and traveling to reach the shore.  You just have no visual concept of how far away you've anchored and how big this place really is.

Finally Bill and I reached shore.  Ziggy was so excited at touching soil that he didn't even think about going to the bathroom.  He was just so happy to run around.  The shore was fascinating.  It was a different kind of rock and soil that I've never seen before.  It was mostly devoid of any flora.  We were immediately drawn to the ice of the glacier.  It was so amazing, like someone had carved it in different shapes revealing caves and crevices with wonderful clean clear shades of blue.  I had brought the two way radios in case Larry felt we needed to get the boat out quickly.  Bill and I were just fascinated by the ice.  The landscape was so large and moon like.  I thought I spotted the Park’s small cruise ship going by the entrance and was concerned about having Ziggy ashore. 

BAROMETER DROPPING RAPIDLY

I called Bonnie on the radio to see if she could look in the binoculars to see if he was coming in.  If so, I would have to gather Ziggy up and get him on the dinghy quickly.  Bonnie came back on the radio.  She said Larry wants to get out of here NOW!  The barometer is dropping!  So sadly, we had to leave the glacier just when beginning to explore a little.  We quickly got back in the dinghy and headed back towards the boat.  I called Bonnie back on the radio and complained that Ziggy didn't even have a chance to do his thing as he was so excited to be running around.  And Bonnie answered back saying Larry said "If he hasn’t gone by now he doesn’t need to go!"  Then I guess he reconsidered because he called back and said to see if we could pee him. 

 

I had to laugh how ridiculous this was.  It was several hours since he’d had a chance to go (all day in fact since we were at Bartlett Cove).  Bill suggested I take Zig up the hill to where there were some little bits or splotches of something green starting or trying to grow.  I took Zig and headed up that way.  As I did a small white bird came dive bombing at me, loudly scolding me for being on their shore (and probably trying to protect a nest I'm sure). 

I know it sounds ridiculous but I felt like we were the first humans on this shore though I know people venture here in the park but it just felt so pristine and it was so quiet and surreal.  I wanted to stay, to see and climb the glacier.  To be there alone and on our own to see and walk where we chose was amazing.  But, sadly we had to hurry the whole experience and get back.  Ziggy finally took a pee on some miniscule piece of foliage that was struggling to survive in this extreme environment.  It was a small bit of foliage that is the beginning of what happens after a glacier recedes. 

SADLY WE LEFT

Sadly we left this fantastic place hoping that maybe we might be able to come back.  Looking back now, we should have anchored there for the night and explored the glacier.  But we didn’t.  We went back to Blue Mouse Cove.  We tried to see the petrified forest stumps on St. Francis Island but couldn’t see them from the boat.  We were also required to keep a mile off the shore in protection of the whales who are feeding along shore now. 

RULES FOR THE PROTECTION OF THE WILD LIFE

Our first day at the ranger station, they gave us a map of the restricted areas designated for the protection of the whales and other sea life.  We were also given strict instructions of how far we could get to the whales and no closer.  I’m glad they are careful to protect the wildlife.  John Hopkins Glacier is protected area right now too because the seals have just given birth to their babies. Makes us wonder now about when Larry went to Le Conte Glacier with the power boat guide.  He said he felt bad for the seals because they would power right up into the glaciers and the poor seals would get scared and leave their babies alone on the ice.  Not good.

BLUE MOUSE COVE

We pull into Blue Mouse Cove.  It’s a somewhat protected anchorage from the ice bergs and popular with cruisers.  It is not particularly scenic but the Douglas Cruising guide book promises a view of bears and wolves which sounds pretty good to us.  There is a ranger float in the entry cove that you are requested not to tie to since it is their place of residence.  We did not see any signs of a ranger during our stay that night and morning.   We did however see the "Canadians" anchored and a large sailboat “Freelance”. Larry found a spot and we anchored.   We had hash for brunch which I’m going to call “Glacier Hash”.  It was a recipe on the top of an evaporated milk can.  Somehow the recipe got thrown away before I made it so I improvised.  Use a bag of hash browns, chopped onions, chopped bell peppers, egg beaters and eggs (all eggs would be better but we had to conserve) and a can of evaporated milk(nonfat) and grated cheddar cheese.  Mix together and bake.  Before completed top with more cheddar and cooked bacon bits.  Everyone seemed to like it and we had leftovers for tomorrow’s breakfast.

Bill took the dinghy out with Ziggy and investigated the cove.  I'm sure he sunk him to shore somewhere for a little relief.  We realize later he mistakenly drove into the back inlets which are a non-motorized area.  So many rules and regulations.

We had BBQ ribs, mashed potatoes, corn bread and salad for dinner that night. 

We did not see any wild life in the cove during our stay.  So much for Douglas' guaranteed sighting of bear and wolves.  We decided we’d like to go back to Reid Glacier and hike it in the morning and then anchor at Fingers Bay.

DATE: 6-29-02
WEATHER: A little Gloomy and windy
LOCATION: Blue Mouse Cove
TEMP: 50
 

DESTINATION: Fingers Cove

COMMENTS: 

NEW RULE, NO TALKING BEFORE AT LEAST 7:00 AM

The guys were up at 6:30 but a new rule made by Bonnie and I, no talking until at least 7:00.  Bill and I took Ziggy to shore early before the other boaters were up.  We snuck in behind a boulder and I took Ziggy into the high grass area (like lemon grass – stiff and course and not thickly settled between the rocks).  He did his job pretty quick while Bill hiked a bit.  I saw other wild animal poop, maybe a wolf not a bear.  There was no time to investigate with Ziggy on land.  We quickly got back in the dinghy and we drove all around the cove checking the area out.

We rode by the sailboat and learned they were out of San Diego.  The bugs were so bad near their boat I could barely stand to sit there in the dinghy and talk to them.  Finally Bill left and we got back on the boat.  We pulled anchor after the Canadians left and headed up the channel again to see Reid Glacier.  The ice suddenly got denser.  It became more and more difficult to maneuver around. 

FRONT IS COMING

We listened to the weather report.  Winds were supposed to pick up and rain was expected.  I guess this is the front that got Larry nervous when he saw the barometer dropping.  We decided it was not smart to continue on up the inlet.  The other side of the channel was clear but the channel is wide and it would be difficult to maneuver over to that area.  We turned the boat around and headed back down.  The light began to change drastically on the water.  It was like a silver pink reflection over the water waves.  It was impossible to see the bergs now without polarized lenses and even then it was difficult and next to impossible.  We all felt we made the correct decision because if the weather got any windier and water any rougher it would be very dangerous.  We headed South down the channel and as we were coming to Geike Inlet we decided to go into one of its inlets and anchor.  (Forgot to mention that this is my day to run the boat from Blue Mouse.) 

GEIKE INLET

So I pulled into Geike Inlet and turned left into the first finger.  It was narrow and the mountains were steep.  It was picturesque nevertheless.  We found anchorage at the end of the finger and settled in.  Bill and Bonnie took Ziggy ashore.  The bugs were a little annoying but not too bad. The mountain sides looked like they would make some good rock climbing if you were a rock climber and had the equipment.  There was a large open cave near the top which would have been fun to investigate. 

 

GETTIN' SICK OF MY FOOD

I made some bean soup for lunch.  Bonnie was beginning to complain about the food I was making.  She said I was cooking too much and I should let the guys get their own food.  She said she just wanted beans and rice.  She refused to eat what I made and even complained about the small square variety of sandwiches I made because they had the crusts on them.  She got herself a coke and some chips for lunch.  Larry nick named her Little Miss Tuffet.  It's always difficult being in tight quarters for days on end with no where to get off to get a little private time on your own and I guess it was getting to Bonnie, or maybe it was my bad cooking.

ABUNDANCE OF WILDLIFE

We pulled anchor after lunch and headed down to Fingers Cove.  As we neared the cove we began to see a lot of wild life.  We saw humpback whales blowing, several of them.  We hung out awhile trying to get some good pictures.  My camera does not focus fast enough to get any good ones.  It was really frustrating to see these wonderful things and no way to capture it.  It was a group of whales.  They first blow with a burst and then surface.  You could see their arched backs and then at the last minute their graceful tales as they dipped down again into the dark cold water.  Beautiful beasts they are.  We followed them for quite away leaving a good distance between us.  The group of whales was to our starboard next to the shore probably a couple 100 yards away.  Off to our port was another spout shooting up about 300 yards away.  They are feeding.  As we leave the whales and head down the channel again we see a lone sea otter just floating on its back with its feet up in the air and his head cocked.  He looks like he's just lazing around. We also see several dolphins.  As we come to the entrance to Fingers Cove there is another pod of whales.  My gosh this place is amazing!  We again try to take several pictures to capture this.  We stop and watch and listen to their fascinating sounds and graceful movements. 

FINGERS COVE (WHERE DO THEY GET THESE NAMES?)

We finally head to the left of the cove to find a spot to anchor.   The shelf at the end of the cove has a sudden drop and we have a 20 foot tide so Larry was concerned about the anchoring.  On the third try we hooked.  I actually think we hooked the first time but we were having a “macho moment” on the boat with Bill and Larry. 

The cove was beautiful.  We looked out on a large grass valley that had two streams running through it emptying into the cove.  The cove was sort of crescent shaped and really was quiet and calm like being in a pond.  The flatland went back deep between two huge mountains that seemed to meet in the far distance.  They were beautiful, covered in rich thick tress and rocky cliffs.  The ranger at the park office had told us the day we arrived that we're apt to see bears here so we watched the grassy shores on three sides of us.  We decided this was a good spot to drop the crab pot.  We tired earlier at our lunch stop but had no luck with our bait of teriyaki beef jerky and some sparerib bones.  This time we sacrificed a good chicken breast for good luck.  

IN THE COMPANY OF WHALES

This was a fantastic cove.  We were in the company of whales that seemed to hang out on the other side of the cove the whole afternoon and evening.  We could see and hear them.  Then later in the early evening before dusk a little sea otter came in and dove for clams and mussels right in front of the boat.  He would crack them on his chest with a rock and open them a bit more with his teeth.  He would then roll over to get rid of the muck off and then lay on his back enjoying his feast and watching us at the same time for entertainment.  We could hear his loud crunching and munching sounds as he enjoyed his food.  His head was really so much like an old man with a big old thick mustache.  He was so cute. 

At dusk we took Ziggy to shore.  No one was around so we didn’t have to worry about Ziggy very much.  The landscape was beautiful.  On shore we saw abundant wild strawberry plants, birch bushes, meadow grass, yarrow that we wiped on our skin hoping to protect us from the prolific populations mosquitoes and no see ums.  There were various shells and crab carcasses here and there left from animal feasts.  You could hear a multitude of different types of birds singing into the late evening.  The sound of streams and waterfalls were heard from different parts of the cove behind the lush greenery.  Last night we could hear strange noises.  It actually sounded like the background of a freeway.  We finally figured that it must have been the tide coming in and washing over the rocks and pebbles on shore.

Dinner last night was BBQ salmon, salad with apple orange, cranberries, snap peas, lettuce onions, and wild rice. 

STRANGE BED FELLOWS

Larry and I took an evening ride on the dinghy (even though evening up here is daylight) to check out the cove and also take Ziggy a shore for a few minutes.  We found a sandy, grassy shore devoid of trees and stopped there.  We actually went in though a shallow cut to get into this smaller lagoon. I walked Ziggy on shore but we stayed away from the shrubbery incase there were bears nearby.  We could still hear the whales puffing and making their strange grinding noises.  At one point we thought we heard a bear roaring but maybe it was the whales. 

It was hard to go to sleep that night because of all that was here to enjoy and see and hear.  Just before dusk some Dall's porpoises came by the boat.  Later that evening we could hear a seal or otter swimming by the boat until late into the evening as we read in our bunks.  Perhaps he was eating scraps from our dinner that we tossed over overboard earlier.  What a wonderful place!

Now on to Part 12